Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and travelers equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it enters a global network of cities cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and lively gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city is no surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has always characterized its soul: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from morning until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known delights that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is precise and complicated. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their children are unwilling to learn the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will encourage more people around the world to learn these tales and experience the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
